Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Juara means Champion...

More about the little beach I currently call home.

Faced with a barage of challenges, the beach they call Champion gets its namesake from the very people who braved the jungle and the formidable climates to live upon the sandy stretch of retired sand. Traditionally customed in Kampong style fashion, Juara would hold its head high at the pristine coral reefs, abundance of returning turtle, vast number of fish and unending supply of fresh water outflows, allowing those who braved the jungle a well to do, but primitive lifestyle.

Today not much has changed in Juara. It is still a Kampong style village, with rudimentary services, the key elements being the Mosque, the school, a few rubber plantations and the occasional fruit plantation. The only change that Juara has seen is the increased number of Tourism on it's sister side of the island in Tekek and the resulting increase in accomodation in Juara to follow suite. At this point however Juara is at a critical point. Not quit bogged down with the boat loads of Tourist, it still takes a hardier soul to make the trek to Juara or cough up the 150Rm for the Taxi ride. Nevertheless, you can feel eve of development lurking somewhere in the shadows. Juara is at the eve of make or break.

What does this mean for the people of Juara and the species that live and depend on these environments for their survival? When I first showed up in Juara in January, we were experiencing the first hand effects of being cut off from the rest of the world. Everyone was running out of Petrol, vegetables, fish and even chicken was scarce. Yet somehow it worked, how? Simple, eat less, eat what's available, and look out for one another. That's how it was done, but as soon as the seas calmed and supplies could reach Juara, every one was fat and happy again. What sort of point am I trying to make?

When you increase the number of people in this area you also increase the demand for resource. Clean water, septic, food, gas and electricity. At this point, during monsoon, Juara is reduced to mostly the local people, afew outsiders like myself and that is it. At this level when supplies are cut, people can ride out the storm sort of speak, but if you stress that threshold to any major level of increase you run the risk of not being able to provide. Or simply putting people and lives at risk just to increase the short term dollar amount knocking at the front door of prosperity, if you like. Not to mention the increased level of stress on the beach and the providing environments.

At this moment in time the East side of Tioman still sees a small number of return Green and Hawksbill turtles. The census of population is virtually impossible to gauge, since the only real count we can obtain is that of returned females, which in a given year is only a percentage of the total mature female population and gives you no idea of the males populations. Therefor, if we take into account the number one threat turtle face, HUMANS, and we equate that with the previous mentioned, increase in tourism, we get a net result of no turtles potentially to this side of the island. Trying to get that message across to the local community is key. As it is essential for them to know the adverse effects of development and understand the importance of balance.

One avenue aside from the Turlte project that I am going to try and work on is attempting to get my surfer friends involved in being the stewards of this beach. Sort of like the guardians. They are the ones who everyday go and brave the surf to find that rare point of satisfaction that I see lacking in the muslim communities as a whole. They are the ones that have found an outlet to get away from drugs and other negative things that could easily steer them into a dead end of poverty and depression. And they are the ones that can make a difference, they are young and imprresionable with even the next batch of youth. It is these kids which hold the key. Empower them with being the protectors of the beach and perhaps, perhaps at the dawn of make or break, we are able to paddle through the break and do the make!

Ciao for now,
Andy

Thursday, March 12, 2009



Jasmine takes a break from the miday sun. Some lovely stairs built by yours truely. Clouds rolling into Juara...we've seen alot of rain in March. Most of it appreciated.
Well...I head back to the states in a few weeks. I will be very excited to see everyone again and share my stories and adventures in a much more intimate and thorough way than I have been able to convey on this bloody blog. However, I will be very sad to leave Tioman and my new family in Juara.
We just dropped of some students at the ferry this morning. They were an international bunch who study in Hong Kong. They came to us to help with the turtle project and learn a bit abou the conservation efforts on Tioman. We managed to get them out snorkelling and hiking in the jungle as well as get them involved in the project building site.
Talking with them their last night, we were able to get an idea of their impression of the Turtle project. Alot of them were touched by the work we have been doing, and seem to now understand the difficulties such conservation efforts have, working with governments and local communities. They all seemed understand the need for involving the local community as a major player in the efforts and also saw the value in reaching out to groups from distant places. However the one take home message that we tried to impress upon them is that, this isn't a turtle issue. Just as I often said in dealing with the salmon restoration efforts in the US. We aren't managing salmon, we have no need to manage salmon. We manage ourselves and our interactions with these creatures and environments. That seems to be the hardest pill for people to swallow is that we need to be more aggressive managing our ac tions and impacts on these areas. It won't be long before these issues are knocking at our door and we are faced with very immediate measures for solving these problems. Why do we not get the picture and learn to take these steps now, before it is too late. The turtles are a nice feature for which we can learn not just about the turtles, but also about the sea and the beaches and the ecosystems they rely on. Leaving us with no other choice than to protect these areas and our own well being.
Ciao for now.
Andy








Some more pics...Couple of volunteers from the UK on their way to Adelaide, Aussiland. They were very helpful and good fun to have around. We also discovered that Turtle eggs are perfect for beer pong, just kidding. This is a green turtle egg harvested by Kasim the local man in the village who has been collecting eggs for alot of years.
Also you will see that my guitar shrank in the airpot and I have been forced to deal with all the local kids making fun of my small guitar...aka ukele.
Looks like scuba steve is on the loose again...this time he's found some very rare Swedish girls!






Just a few pics from thailand. These guys in the boat were some pirates that came along side our boat to steal tourist. Lucky for us they were happy pirates who would steal you and take you to magical paradise, with sandy beaches and lots ot Tiger Beer.



Monday, February 23, 2009

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Well...what can I say it has been very nice to get a bit of a break from grinding floor boards and lifting bricks everyday, but even paradise comes with a cost and impact. I don't seem to understand how everyone somehow thinks that if they get the Eco-lodge, or travel light that they are somehow less degrading to the tourism scene. Or the best one yet is the one where everyone comes to an island on a boat and everyone is looking to stay at a non-touristy beach. What?

Pictures of Koh Phi Phi from the late 1990's show an island filled with lush palm ladden forest. Coral reefs lined the white pristine sands like armed guards at an entrance gate. Tourism had very little steam in these parts as most of the western crowds where still busy tearing apart Koh Samui and Ko Panang. But like all beautiful places everyone wants to spend a bit of time away from there cares, shedding their burden perhaps onto the very beaches they lay upon. The case with Koh Phi Phi is no different, a blockbuster called the beach was filmed on Koh Phi Phi Lei, the smaller of the two islands and overnight everyone was packing their bags to find this once in a life time place. In no time at all Koh Phi Phi population grew the western travellers and soon, the climbing mecca of Krabi became a launch point for the herds.

In 2004, a tsunami kicked off, in I believe, Sumatra Indonesia. Sending a 40m surge of water toward every piece of land and coastline that it could reach. In literally minutes the small village of local fisherman and tourist, where gone. Claiming the lives of nearly 3000, people. Video footage from a birds eye view shows the small isthmus consumed by the serge, carrying with it buildings boats and people.

The aftermath played itself out in typical fashion. Look toward the government for some help, but the coordination and resources required to post such an effort made the Thai governmental support minimal and uneffective. The result, a completly rebuilt mini pedestrian only city packed onto the isthmus over the remains of the old site. As I understand it a few venture capitalist types swooped in on land and development, aiming to build a name for Koh Phi Phi and another destination for the LP's(lonely planet people) to circle in their itinerary.

Am I glad to be here...of course I am . It is a wonderful place and aside from the jam packed little town on the isthmus, things are lightly developed and left to their own. The snorkelling is wonderful and there are more Swede's in bikini's than you can shake a stick at, but I still have to wonder...are we loving these places to death? And should there be a point at which we stop the rampage on our landscapes?

Tuesday, February 10, 2009



Left, Lily and Adriana(Fast Eddie's little girl). Lily, is our cook and all around motherly figure. She is an amazing cook and I'm hoping to take a few new recipes home with me for those of you who don't mind the spice. Right, are some tracks from a very early return, Hawksbill turtle. SAhe came back and laid over 100 eggs two days later. Of which we are in possesion. They should hatch by the time I leave. This turtle is about 2 months early, so even though it is exciting it is also a bit concerning as to what is going on in the sea.
Stay tuned, love you all enjoy the pics.
Andy



Left, is Gaffer...local surfer, he also owns a boat which he fishes from and uses to Taxi people around the island in the summer. Center, the beach I look at daily this is just outside my chalet looking down the beach. Mostly jungle right up to the water. Right, Botok...most likely the best surfer on the beach, aside form Gaffer. He apparently won a comp on the mainland early this year and has a bit of an ego, but not much. Wave for wave...he' pretty darn good.





Septic systems put in the old fashioned way...by hand. Middle, Charlie and I havin at it. Right is Mike, Charlie and Bedin laying blocks. Left is the end product, before it collapsed and we had to dig it and lay the block again. This time I convinced them to put in baffles for lateral support. I'm experienced in things collapsing...aka big culverts. Don't over load those wall..sheer stress i tell ya! Anyway we gotter done and moved on to hole number two behind the chalets.




Far left is Charlie and Mike working on the floor boards...once we got done laying all the boards we had to grind them...with a 4" grinder. The boards are slavage from Singapore. All the wood is mostly second hand aside from some of the timber. The middle shot is the restaurant from the road. Bear in mind that before I arrived this was all jungle about 2 yards off the beach. The land has been leased for about 30 years and then they began the clearing. Reminds me very much of what it is like to build in the upper Skagit. The far right shot is the floor in the Chalets, we still have to put the walls in, but will wait to grind the floor first...yikes another floor. That when the Ipod comes in very handy.





Far left are the chalets as I first saw them. The center shot is after a week or walls and a roof. The building will ultimately be slpit into three accomodations with two bathrooms a piece. Each room can house seven volunteers. The shot far right is a look a the kitchen/restaurant. Since this photo we have finished the roof and wall on the kitchen and finished the floor as well. You will see other shots of a more finished product. The restaurant isn't what you would think of as a restaurant in the states,but is a generic word for a place to eat. This is where the volunteers will be feed.





The shot in the middle is baggage claim on Tioman, very nice! The shot far right is the first view I have of the beach in Juara. The plane landed in Tekek on the west side of the island then I had to hire a 4wd to take me to the east side, to Juara, which is where I live. The shot far left is a pic from my bedroom window, for those of you curious of how close to the beach I am. This is what I see every morning at about 7 am.








These are a few pics of Kuala Lumpur and Sinapore as well as the plane I flew into Tioman on. The plane ride was rediculously scary when we came in for a landing. The plane came in at a 90 degree anlge to the side of a mountain and then at the last minute turned onto a run way.




Thursday, January 29, 2009

Right near the beach...

Well..I must start by saying that I miss spoke about my friend Kay and her son Graham. He is in a coma however and the level of braindamage is very severe. I guess the doctors recommended lethal injection, but they refused...hoping that prayer and time will heal him. He is in good hands in Honolulu and although he is incapacitated at this time he has been showing signs of will and fight. Send good energy.

All else in Tioman is going smooth. We have been pounding away on floor boards and I finally bartered a surf board from the local surf shack for some wax that I brought. I've been getting my lumps on the surf, waves are fairly good size and I'm riding a much smaller board than I am used too, but I am gonna get it. The local kids are quit good and surprisingly friendly. Alot of them infact paddled up to me to say hi and tell me there names. There are a few that are pretty skilled and they stack up on the line up as if theres nothing to it. When you go for a wave they cheer you, so it is really fun. I'm sure as I build some strength and endurance I'll be able to hang, but they surf for about 4 hours at a time, I'm only good for about an hour and a half my arms are toast, so I'm on a steady regiment of push up and sit up to try and catch up.

We've also had a few visitors come through to see two of the turtle we have here at the sanctuary year round. We care for them because one is blind and the other has a bad air sac, which is constantly inflated and he can't dive or swim straight. We keep them in a large pool and feed them fish and squid. Abit of a stray from their algal diet, but they seem to like it. Refilling the pool is a bit of a workout, about 600 buckets worth of back breaking sprints up the beach. Everyone chips in though so it is a great time to all hang out.

At the lagoon where I am staying there are about 4 staff, all local Malay. There is Lily the cook, I try to stay on her good side. Jasmine her husband and all around handy man. Bedin, who is a surfer and helps where needed. And Ton, he shares the chalet next to mine, but doesn't speak any english so I usually just play the Ukele for him and he seems to like that. Aside from that there is Charlie and myself and a new guy Mike who is from Wales and has been here before so he knows quit a bit about the area and is a good guy to have around. He is also quit a surfer so he has been whiping me into shape. He just got done with a 3 month bike ride across australia, and came straight here, so he got a few stories to share as well.

Well that is all for now...be well and Salamat Malam.

Andy

Monday, January 26, 2009

Hello from Tioman

Sorry for taking so long to create a new post...I am not much of a blogger I guess. I'm working with dial up, if you can remember that and uploading pictures is most likely out of the question for now until I can return to some high speed.

I would like to start by saying that I just received terrible news that my good friend Kay Howe just lost her son to a rare disease called rat lung disease or snail lung disease. He was quit young, in his early twenties and he was on the wrestling team I coached a few years back in Concrete. In his years after highschool he travled all over the world was quit the surfer and an amazing artist. He'll be deeply missed. Godspeed Graham.

All else is going smooth on Tioman. I am falling into a nice routine of work, sleep and trying to throw in a bit of surfing. Juara is the village where I live and there are about 300 people, so things are very laid back and very friendly. Most of the work thus far has been pounding nails, pouring cement and cutting boards. I've been putting in about 10-12 hour days, so I have not had much free time to myself, but I'm working on that. At this point it feels good to be of some help and have a purpous for being here. Grunt labor. That's Ok though in payment I recieve a chalet right on the beach and excellent Malay cuisine for breaky and dinner. The turtles won't start showing up until March after the Monsoon, so that will be very exciting to witness that part of things.

The project itself is an uphill battle as are most environmental endeavors, there is very little community support as most of them have eaten the eggs for years and although the royal family showed support during a large media event last year have been very unhelpfull in drumming up support for the program. So we march on, lead by a firey british workaholic, John Amos, myself and the others here are engaged in what John likes to call, "realistic endeavors...none of this massaging our ego shit", which I can relate to after having spent three years running into that very same thing with the fisheries biz.

Anyway I digress...I am a bit flustered by the news I received today and will try hard to write more and more often...as I have much to share. Picture too.

My heart goes out to Kay and her family and too all of you really...spread the love!
Be well stay tuned and Salamat Malam.

Andy

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Flip-flop-O-rama

What ever you do, never hike 6 miles in flip flops, especially if you just came from the land of wool socks and boots. Let me learn the lessons for you!!

Anywho...I digress. I took a lovely walk through Singapore today. This city is lovely and it was sunday so all the churches and temples were in full occupation. The streets here are, as Fin says, "clean enough to eat off of". I am impressed. The city is also well laid out, with major roads well paced throughout the entire city, so traffic is impressivly always on the move and I mean moving....don't forget they drive on the other side of the road...so if your on a flip flop walkabout with a beer head remember to always check for traffic...it comes from the other way. The cars are also immaculate. They don't allow old jallopies on the road, so all the vehicles are new, not to mention once again they get the cream of the crop of all the makes and models. What is wrong with America...if we had half this selection I'd be happy.

So, I managed to get to the marina from Little India where I am staying and that was about all my puppies could handle. I may have pressed on but the afternoon sun was cooking and I was wearing out. I took a break at a little outdoor cafe...of which there are many and there also open 24/7, which comes in handy when your hanging with the Aussie and Brit crowd. They are all very good assuming you like indian, chinese, thai and vietnamese food...ding, ding, ding...winner! Just don't listen to the little woman who says the peppers aren't hot. Boy, I am a rookie! Anyway very good food. Cheap as well. I think the most I paid for food and drink was 4 Singapore Dollars which is about 3 and change US dinero. It the beer that'l spank your pocket book...$10 a pint. No mas por favor.

Well, I head to Mersing tomorrow and from the sounds of it Monsoon is late so things are developing in the South China Sea, according to my oceanography friend I meet last nite. So, that means I may end up haning in Mersing for a few days waiting on the ferry. Wish me luck...stay tuned. I'm still working on the pics...I ain't no IT guy!

Friday, January 9, 2009

Singapore

Well...first of I'd like to say thank you for the wonderful going away the other night. A painting party/going away was an excellent idea. I meant to post the pics, but have had some trouble post pics...I'll try again.

Well all was smooth, aside for the talky army gal that sat beside be, "Major Pain in my ass" from Seattle to tokyo. Oh yea, I guess I missed that small detail. I thought I was flying into Hong Kong...whoops, I meant Tokyo. Wonderfully easy to navigate and amazing lavatory facilities. Anyway I ended up taking some Ambeint to ease the flight and knock me out...I watched the Duchess and ate one pill and was down for the count..for about 8 hours. Woke up feeling fresh in Tokyo, but still had a 7 flight to Singapore, so I ate one more....it surely did the trick ,but I as a bit woozy when aking in Singapore.

Customes was a breeze and found a Taxi no problem...this city is reallly neat and clean....air temp at 1:00 am is abouy 77. I headed to the hostel which I had booked a room at only to find out they booked it for last night and had no more rooms available until tomorrow. So, I am allowed to hang out and use the internet as I wish until noon when I can crash. I figure I better stay up while I can and try and get on a routine. I'm going to stay in Singapore for 2 days before headed up to Malaysia.

I'll work on keeping everyone posted, but for now know that I am safe.
Andy

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Jan 6..Two days before leaving.

With so much in disarray around the world I fell very much blessed to be able to embark on a journey to a new place. In two days I venture out to Singapore. From there I am going to travel via bus and ferry into the South China Sea...destination, Tioman Island. 

While on Tioman I will be helping TAT turtle sanctuary continue to finish facilities that will be used in all their endeavors helping to save the green and hawksbill turtles. I am excited to see this beautiful island and happy to be a part of something positive for these unique sea creatures.

During my time and travels I will attempt to update this site weekly, so that everyone can enjoy learning about this place and the culture. You may also get a taste of my personal feelings and conditions as I'm sure life will be a bit different for me. 

Thank you all for your interest. 
"Be the change you want to see in the world" ghandi

Andy